Ornamental woven fabric and method of making the same



W. TERES June 8, 1937.

AME

' ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE 5 Filed Aug. 15,-1956 2 sheets-sheet 1 INVENTOR, [William Teres, v

TTORNEY.

June 8, 1937. w TERES 2,083,248

ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Aug. 15, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 min INVENTOR, Wil iam; Tel-es,

. Jim;

ATTORN Patented June 8, 1937 V t omrto T S rATsNT OFFMIE OBNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRIC AND METH- OD OF MAKING THE SAME William Teres, New York, N. Y. Application August 15, 1936, Serial No. 96,286 "2 Claims. (or. 26-69) My present invention relates generally to texvirtue of the fact that, during the heat and prestiles, .and has particular reference to a new ornasure of'the. moire procedure, the dobby figures mental woven fabric and a method of making the produce similar impressions on the opposite ply same. of the fabric; and, at the same time, they affect The present novel fabric is of the moired type, the continuity of the wavy moire stripes. The 5 and the novel ornamentation is characterized by result is that in the finished fabric there are'two a series of spaced wavy moire stripes, and a se sets of ornamental spot areas, one set being ries of spaced ornamental spot areas which cocomposed of the original dobby figures, and the operate in a unique manner with the 'moir other set being arranged in relatively oblique 1; stripes. relationship to the first set and consisting of An ornamental textile of the present imthe spot impressions of the'dobby figures. These proved character employs as its basis a woven two sets of spot areas are interspersed in a ground fabric of the ribbed type, i. e., a fabric pleasing arrangement among a series of spaced in which the number of warp threads per inch wavy moire stripes, and the unique character of bears a. relatively high ratio. to the number of the. present novel ornamentation is enhanced by 15 filler threads per inch. This type of weave, esthe fact that each moire stripe has its wavy conpecially where the filler threads are of highly tinuity interrupted and laterally displaced whertwisted yarn, produces a ribbed effect, in itself ever it encounters cneo-f the spot areas. well known, by virtue of the fact that the filler I achieve the foregoing objects, and such other threads remain substantially straight and parallel objects as may hereinafter appear or be pointed while the warp threads necessarily undulate up out, in the manner illustratively exemplified in and down around the fillers. the accompanying drawings, wherein-'- It is well known that a ribbed fabric, especially Figure 1 is a plan view of a portion of ground where the warp threads are composed of artificial fabric having spaced dobby figures woven theresill; of the acetate type, lends itself readily to a into; 25

moireing procedure. Before describing the de- Figure 2 is an enlarged plan view, somewhat tails of my present invention, I will point out diagrammatic in character, of a portion of the that the moireing treatment which I employ is finished textile, Figure 2 representing in a genthe one whereby the fabric is doubled upon itself eral way the area delimited by dot-and-dash along a line substantially parallel to'the weft, and lines in Figure 1; 30

is then subjected to heat and pressure between Figure 3 is a greatly enlarged cross-sectional rollers or the like. When the fabric is doubled. view taken substantially along the line 3-3 of upon itself, the two superposed plies are purpose- Figure 2; and ly arranged slightly askew with respect to each Figure lis a photographic plan view of a por- 5 other, so that the ribs of the upper ply are not tion of ornamental textile constructed in accordtruly parallel to the ribs of the lower ply, When ance withthe present invention and clearly showthese superposed plies are subjected to heat and ing its unique features. pressure, the relative angularity of the ribs re- In the portion of fabric indicated in Figurel, sults in producing a series of spaced wavy moire it may be pointed out that the warp threads,

40 stripes. which are preferably of the acetate type, extend 40 My present invention is predica ed p n the vertically as viewed in. this figure. At it I have discovery that an unusual novel effect of ornaindicated one lateral margin of the fabric, and mentation can be achieved by initially incorat ii I have indicated the opposite lateral marporating in the r'bbed fabric, during its weavgin, these margins being selvaged in accordance 5 ing, a series of dobby figures or spots of parwith usualweaving practice. While not shown ticular character. More particularly, the dobby in Figure 1, it will be understood that the fabric figures are arranged in a regular pattern, preferis of the ribbed type, i. e., a series of parallel ably with the figures in alignment both lengthridges or ribs extending transversely across the wise and transversely of thefabric. Each figfabric frgmthemargin It) t sthe margin it, This ure is woven in such a manner that it defines a ribbed effect is produced, as hereinbefore pointed so slightly raised area of suflicient density and co-mout, by employing a high ratio between the numpactness, so that it will have an embossing effect ber of warps per inch and the number of fillers when the fabric is subsequently doubled upon per inch, and also by preferably using a highly itself for the moire treatment. twisted filling.

The unusual ornamental effect is produced by In accordance with my invention, the ground 55 10 ticular type of dobby ness to carry out 45 a slightly askew relation, one

0 is applied to the original dobby figures.

of the present fabric.

fabric, when originally woven, is caused to embody a series of dobby figures which are represented in Figure l by small black spots. Preferproximately the same as the distance between the rows themselves.

While my invention is not limited to any parso Woven that it defines a relatively dense and compact area. One way of accomplishing this result is illustrated most clearly in Figure 3.

10 In Figure 3, the reference numeral I2 is ap-- plied to the filling threads, and the reference numeral i3 is applied to the warp threads. be observed that I have shown the ground fabric Wherever a dobby figure of the present character is desired, the warp thread is permitted to float over three fillers and then under three fillers, the adjacent warp being sirni- Z5 larly but oppositely arranged. This method of weaving produces a substantially rectangular sufiicient density and compactthe purposes of my invention. I have illustratively shown the warp threads passdobby figure of 0 ing over three fillers and then under three fillers,

rectangular a dobby figure is referred to and herein illustrated merely by way of example and that my invention is not restricted to these details of dobby Weaving.

The next procedure, in carrying out my invention, is to double the fabric of Figure 1 upon it- 49 self along a line substantially parallel to the erence numeral i5 is applied to a series of spaced spot impressions which are the result of pressing the dobby figures of one ply into the opposite ply during the heat and pressure treatment. It will 55 be observed that the impressions l 5, while aligned and spaced substantially like the figures M, are, nevertheless, arranged along oblique lines. arises from the askew relationship between the superposed plies during the moir treatment.

60 It will further be observed that the fabric now which I have designated by the reference numer- The exact disposition and spacing of these stripes cannot be foretold during the production Sometimes the stripes are quite wild, but in general they are arranged in spaced relationship and extend in a substantially longitudinal direction, 1'. e., substantially in the direction of the warp threads of the fabric.

Upon observing Figure 2, it will be noted that the smooth continuity of the waviness of the moir stripes is interrupted where they encounter the spot areas l4 and I5. The interruption usually manifests itself by a lateral displacement of the stripe, but sometimes the interruption is of a different character and one stripe may seem to merge with the adjacent one, or to vary from its basic waviness in some other manner. This result is directly attributable not only to the fundamental nature of the moir treatment, but also to the spacing and general nature of the original dobby figures.

The ultimate unique ornamental eflect is characterized by the spaced dobby figures, by the spaced wavy moir stripes, by the spaced spot impressions made by the dobby figures, themselves,

It will be understood that my invention is applicable to fabrics in a variety of ways. For example, the present unique ornamentation may extend completely across the full width of the fabric, or it may extend across only a partial width. Sometimes it may be desirable to provide the present ornamentation in spaced areas, and to provide other ornamentation or an absence of ornamentation in the intermediate areas.

claims. It is, therefore, intended that these details be interpreted as illustrative, and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is- 1. An ornamental moired textile, comprising the spot impressions thereof.

2. The method of WILLIAM TERES. 

